There are two routes between Saint-Jean and Roncesvalles. The (lower) right route goes through Valcarlos, and the (higher) left route goes through Orisson. If you're walking in winter it's important to ask in Saint-Jean about weather conditions. Both routes are difficult in snow or high winds and the left route is often impassable in winter and is officially closed from the beginning of November until the end of March (ignoring this may lead to legal sanctions). In mountainous areas such as these, weather conditions can change very quickly.

Leaving Saint-Jean walk down rue de la Citadelle, under the arch of Porte d'Espagne and up rue d'Espagne, continuing straight under another arch and up a hill for about 100m until you reach a junction with a small sign on a lamppost indicating where the two routes divide.

Right route 24km / 6 hrs via Valcarlos. The lower route.

At the junction turn right on to Chemin de Mayorga and continue straight until you come to the main road which you follow to the left. After about 600m turn right on to a small road, clearly signposted Valcarlos / Luzaide and Roncevaux (French for Roncesvalles).

8km / 2 hrs to the Spanish border, marked by a gaudy shopping centre and petrol station. Walk towards the petrol station and continue straight.

1km / ¼ hr to Arnéguy, shops, cafés and restaurants. At the main road the Camino divides. There are two options between here and Valcarlos; go right and walk along the main road, or go left and walk on a minor road through the village of Ondarrola. They're approximately the same length. At this point the river marks the Spanish / French border.

From Valcarlos ascent 670m to the pass, Puerto de Ibañeta (altitude 1057m) and descending 100m to arrive in Roncesvalles after 12km / 3 hrs (allow extra time for the ascent).

Follow the main road for 2km / ½ hr until the Camino veers left on to a minor road and passes through the village of Gañecoleta before rejoining the main road after 2km / ½ hr. It then follows the main road for another 2km / ½ hr before veering left on to a lane. From here on it's wooded, mountainous terrain to Ibañeta, apart from one place where it briefly meets the road again. Off-road parts of this route may be difficult in snow, in which case it's advisable to stick to the road.

Left route (Route Napoleon) 24km / 6 hrs

Ascends 330m to...

Ascends 250m to...

17km / 4¼ hrs to Roncesvalles from Orisson (walking time NOT adjusted for ascent and descent).

Between here and Roncesvalles the Camino ascends 650m to the pass at Col Lepoeder (altitude 1450m) before descending 500m.

Entering Spain and Navarra

There are two options when descending into Roncesvalles, the one to the left is quite a steep descent through the forest, while the one to the right is slightly longer, descending more gently along an unpaved road via the church at Puerto de Ibañeta.

Left and right route rejoin in...

3km / ¾ hr to Burguete, cafés, bank, pharmacy shop - however, some things will be closed if you're passing through early in the morning. Several cafés on and near the Camino open for breakfast. One, in the village a little after where the Camino turns right, is also a bakery.

The Camino takes an abrupt right turn at the red Santander sign.

5km / 1¼ hrs to Viskarret, modern café before the village and the traditional Bar Juan on main square with its amazing tortillas. Shop on your left when leaving the village.

2km / ½ hr to Linzoain, then 8km / 2 hrs from Linzoain to Zubiri with a 300m descent into the valley of the river Arre.

The Camino continues straight along the riverbank and doesn't go through the village of Zubiri which is on the other side of the bridge.

The Camino bypasses Larrasoaña. If you want to visit the village you'll have to cross the bridge.

It's suburban streets from here to Pamplona. The Camino turns right shortly before a roundabout with a fountain in the middle and crosses a main road and turns right. When you see a 'zig-zag' footbridge over the river, this is the quickest way to Casa Paderborn, otherwise continue straight along the riverbank to Puente de la Magdalena.

If you get lost leaving Pamplona head for the Ciudadela fortress at the corner of Avenida del Ejército and Avenida del Pio XII. The path beside the park, with the fortress to your left, is the Camino. It's clearly marked. Several cafés around here are open early.

Ascends 350m and descends 250m over the next 12km.

Descends 250m, on loose gravel which must be tackled with care, to...

From Muruzábal you can make a short detour to visit the church in Eunate, it's signposted from the Camino. From Eunate you can rejoin the Camino in Obanos, adding approximately 3km / ¾ hr.

There are two routes to get to Puente la Reina. Leaving Obanos you'll come to steps leading down left on to a slightly meandering (ie. longer) path away from the road. Alternatively, if you choose to continue straight ahead you can follow a path parallel to the road passing Albergue Jakue.

Steep 100m climb before arriving in...

To leave Estella continue past the Municipal Hostel on Calle la Rua, straight until you come to a roundabout where you continue straight to another roundabout where there is an Avia petrol station. Here the Camino continues uphill on a footpath. You can also continue walking along the road, Calle de Carlos VII, which rejoins the Camino after 500m, on this road is a small Decathlon (outdoor shop) and several large supermarkets.

The Camino splits shortly after Bodegas Irache. Distances are from Ayegui.

Right route 19km / 4¾ hrs

From Irache 4km / 1hr to Azqueta, nice café, open from 07:00. Vending machines.

12km / 3 hrs through open country with very little shade to Los Arcos

Left Route 19km / 4¾ hrs

The left route passes through beautiful forested countryside and the village of Luquín.

11km / 2¾ hrs to Los Arcos, very little shade.

Right and left routes rejoin in open countryside

Entering La Rioja (although if you stray a little to your right you can pass through a tiny corner of the Basque Country)

Mostly concrete to Navarrete!

7km / 2¼hrs to café La Parada del Peregrino. Watch out for squirrels begging for (and possibly stealing) food, and rabbits.

The Camino follows the road for a while before swinging away to the left shortly after the Ermita de Santa María de Jesús.

4km / 1 hr to turnoff for Sotés which is about 2km / ½ hr off the Camino.

A sign-posted alternative route allows you to bypass Ventosa.

After passing under a main road turn left towards Nájera (unless you actually want to visit Huércanos - not recommended).

Extreme care is necessary when crossing the main roads in Santo Domingo!

Entering Castilla y León. The border is marked by a 'megalith' which is rumoured to have appeared in the dead of night during a violent thunder storm. Local Albergue owners are rumoured to offer it a blood sacrifice every new year's day in the hope of plentiful big spending pilgrims and possibly a sequel to The Way.

The main road at Redecilla can be busy.

It is not advisable to walk along the side of the very busy main road.

Ascent 200m over 3km

There are two routes from here to Burgos. The alternative one is waymarked but little-used and devoid of pilgrim accommodation. It passes through the following villages: Santovenia de Oca, Zalduendo, Ibeas de Juarros, Castrillo del Val, San Medel, Castañares and then to Burgos. Parts of it are along the side of a main road.

There are two routes when entering Burgos. They divide after Orbaneja, shortly after crossing over a motorway where there are houses and recycling containers on the left. The right route has little shade and passes through Villafría (cafés) and an endless industrial zone. The left route follows the perimeter fence of the airport to a village called Castañares (cafés) and a major road which you can cross at the pedestrian crossing to your left. Continue straight through a small park with a children's playground to your left and a basketball court to your right, straight along a small road which crosses a stream and swings right at the entrance to a factory. Continue until you cross a footbridge over a river. Now turn right and follow the path between the river and a busy road, turning left to pass under the road. Now you can follow the river for a pleasant, shady walk all the way to the city. There's a beach where you can swim (although the water's freezing). This route passes through a little-frequented nature reserve and some people may feel uncomfortable on their own. Both routes are approximately the same length.

Finding your way out of Burgos can be a bit complicated. Exiting the municipal hostel turn right and continue past the cathedral along Calle Fernán de González for about 800m until you come to the city wall. Pass through the arch and turn left down the steps and straight on to Calle Emperador as far as Calle Villalon, where you turn left. This will bring you to the river which you cross on a footbridge (Puente Malotos) straight in front of you. After the footbridge you'll see a statue of Santo Domingo and the entrance to a park at the corner of Paseo de los Comendadores. You can either walk through the park or veer right on to Avenida de José Maria Vilacián Rebollo and then straight on to Calle de Villadiego, then veer right on to Calle de Benito Pérez Galdós (sign pointing to Los Guindales). From there follow the yellow arrows.

For several kilometres after Hontanas the Camino runs parallel to a quite country road. In bad weather walking the road is by far the better option.

In case you were expecting the Meseta to be flat, there's a massive hill about 1km after Castrojeriz. Ermita de San Nicolás is in open country about 1km from the village of Itero del Castillo which is bypassed by the Camino.

Entering the Province of Palencia

Just before Población on the left is the Romanesque Ermita de San Miguel with a nice shady wooded area.

After Población, just before crossing a small bridge, the Camino divides to rejoin in Villalcázar de Sirga.

Right route 10km / 2½ hrs

4km / 1 hr to Villovieco, café. After Villovieco the Camino crosses the río Ucieza and continues alongside it for 5km / 1¼ hrs until a bridge with a large house nearby where you turn left and follow the paved road for 1km / ¼ hr to Villalcázar. This route is a quieter and more pleasant option than the left route.

Left route 10km / 2½ hrs

This route goes along the side of a road.

4km / 1 hr Revenga de Campos

4km / 1 hr to Villalcázar de Sirga

Right and left routes rejoin in

You should not leave Carrión without enough food and water for a long walk.

Take care crossing the main road here, fast traffic.

Someone's gone to a lot of trouble to direct you right along the main road after Lédigos. For the real route of the Camino cross the main road and continue down a side road for about 200m until the Camino branches right on to an unpaved road.

Entering the Province of León

The Camino de Madrid joins the Camino Francés in Sahagún.

4km / 1 hr after Sahagún, at a road junction near a motorway just before Calzada del Coto, the Camino divides and continues on two separate paths until Reliegos. Much overpainting of arrows at this junction. The right route was a Roman Road whereas the left route is the original Camino Francés.

Right route 31km / 7¾ hrs to Reliegos

500m to...

18km / 4½ hrs to Reliegos or 24km / 6 hrs to Mansilla via an alternative route which branches right after 16km / 4 hrs (signpost often vandalised). Don't set off without adequate supplies for a long day's walking. There is no possibility to stock up on the way. The route runs entirely through open countryside parallel to the León Madrid railway line. It is possible to cross over to the left route in several places. Do not cross the railway line unless you want to join the other route.

Left route 31km / 7¾ hrs to Reliegos.

For the left route continue straight at the road junction then veer right on to an unpaved road. Many parts of this route are gravel path along the side of a quiet road (So called Senda).

13km / 3¼ hrs to Reliegos.

Right and left routes rejoin in...

It's no longer necessary to cross the road bridge over the river Porma before Puente de Villarente, the long-awaited footbridge is now in operation.

It's mostly suburban from here to León.

The official Camino winds its crooked way around the tourist attractions of León. Don't worry if you end up lost! The easiest way to find your way out is to find the river and walk upstream until you come to the footbridge, Puente San Marcos, which is just beside the magnificent Hostal de San Marcos. Cross the river here and follow the yellow arrows out of town.

Several cafés do breakfast in Trobajo del Camino south of the river. There are also several supermarkets, pharmacies and bakeries (unfortunately they don't open until late morning) and banks.

Cross the main road at the church and turn right. 100m further on the Camino divides. The right route runs along the side of a busy main road. The left route passes through open countryside. The two routes rejoin in Hospital de Órbigo. The right route follows the Roman road and is considered the original Camino.

There is a lot of confusing signposting at this junction.

Right route 26km / 6½ hrs

2km / ½ hr to San Miguel del Camino, shop, cafés. Then 8km / 2 hrs to...

7km / 1¾ hrs to Hospital de Órbigo

Left route 27km / 6¾ hrs

2km / ½ hr to Fresno del Camino, café.

7km / 1¾ hrs to Chozas de Abajo, café about 200m off the Camino to the left. Then 4km / 1 hr to...

Villavente can be bypassed by continuing straight on the road.

4km / 1 hr to Hospital de Órbigo.

Right and left routes rejoin in...

Leaving the village the Camino divides. To the right it passes through the villages of Villares de Órbigo and Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias. The left route follows the main road. These two paths join again before San Justo de la Vega.

Right route 16km / 4 hrs to Astorga

From Santibáñez it's 12 km / 3 hrs to Astorga. 5km / 1¼ hrs to David's refreshment stand, still operating, with or without its creator. 3km / ¾ hr to San Justo de la Vega.

Left route 16km / 4 hrs to Astorga

This route is slightly shorter however it follows a busy main road for most of its course.

Right and left routes rejoin just before...

San Justo de la Vega, cafés, bakery and further on on the right a shop and a pharmacy, all on the Camino. Café Bar Oasis is a friendly place and claims to have the best tortilla in the world (it just might be true!). 4km / 1 hr to...

Leaving town is a bit confusing so pay close attention to the waymarkings. Following the Camino through town, with the cathedral main façade to you right veer left down Calle Leopoldo Panero and then at the end turn right. Continue straight across a road junction on to Calle de San Pedro (past the unusual modern Iglesia de San Pedro) until you arrive at the main road called Avenida Madrid-Coruña, which you cross on the pedestrian crossing to the right before continuing on to Calle de los Mártires. Follow this and it's straight all the way out of town.

3km / ¾ hr to Castrillo de los Polvazares. Although just off the 'official' Camino, it is considered the jewel among Maragato villages and is well worth a visit. To get there from Murias follow the road rather than the Camino. It's to the right of the road across a bridge at a place where there's a small carpark. Castrillo has several popular restaurants and is a good place to try Cocido Maragato and other local specialities - although the restaurants, not being pilgrim establishments, keep normal hours.

The climb to Cruz de Ferro begins in earnest after El Ganso, however, the ascent is mostly pretty gradual.

If there's snow on the mountains you can walk on the road all the way to Molinaseca.

2km / ½ hr after Foncebadón you will come to the Cruz de Ferro.

After the highest point you will descend 900m between here and Molinaseca (15km). The path may be slippery in places, especially in winter. It is possible to follow the road all the way.

The Camino after El Acebo has recently been diverted to follow the road for most of its course.

There is a long, steep and difficult descent into Molinaseca. An easier alternative if you don't like descents or in poor weather, is to walk along the road.

From here, unfortunately, you'll be walking on hard surfaces most of the way to Las Herrerías.

There are two options when entering Ponferrada. Either continue on the main road all the way (the right route) or follow the longer 'official' Camino to the left through a series of meanders to arrive at the municipal hostel crossing the river Boeza over a Roman bridge (the left route).

Getting out of Ponferrada is a little complicated. From the hostel follow the arrows to the castle and then right. The Camino leads you through the new part of town. The waymarkings can be followed with care.

The Camino in Camponaraya runs along a busy road the length of the village and out the other side until at the gates of a factory it veers up to the left beside a picnic area.

Shortly after Pieros there are two options, either right through the village of Valtuille de Arriba, where there's a café, or left along the road (slightly shorter).

Right route 11km / 2¾ hrs

Shortly after crossing the bridge in Villafranca the Camino divides. The right route goes up a narrow, steep street by Peluquería Ana (Hairdresser). It may not be signposted due to vandalism. This route passes through beautiful mountainous countryside before rejoining the left route in Trabadelo. It has a steep ascent and descent and yellow arrows are scarce at times. Once at the top follow the unpaved road, at two points you will come to junctions where yellow arrows urge you to go right towards the village (Pradela, café, albergue), if you don't want to go to the village just ignore them and veer left. Descend towards Trabadelo on the road until, in a left-hand curve, there's a marked track branching right, follow this, it crosses the road twice before arriving in Trabadelo. It's a bit of an adventure but much more beautiful than the valley route and worth the slog (in good weather).

Left route 10km / 2½ hrs

The left route continues straight ahead after crossing the bridge in Villafranca and follows the road along the flat valley floor beside the río Valcarce. Passing through...

5km / 1¼ hrs to Trabadelo

Right and left routes rejoin in...

The climb to O Cebreiro begins here. In the next 9km you'll climb 600m.

Welcome to Galicia, Province of Lugo

Leaving O Cebreiro there are two options, you can either walk past the municipal hostel and through the forest, or walk down to the road before you come to the municipal hostel and follow it to the left (currently being pushed as the 'recommended' route).

600m descent to...

2km / ½ hr to Biduedo, café

In Triacastela, at the end of the main street the Camino divides. The right route goes through Calvor and on to Sarria. The left route goes through Samos.

Right route 14km / 3½ hrs

8km / 2 hrs to Furela, café Bar Franco does good food, especially empanadas and Caldo Galego (see under O Cebreiro) although only in cold weather.

2km / ½ hr to Pintín, café

1km / ¼ hr to Aguiada

Left route 20km / 4½ hrs

Follow the road for 4km / 1 hr as far as San Cristovo do Real where the Camino branches to the right.

2km / ½ hr to Renche, café.

10km / 2½ hrs to Aguiada. There are two routes from Samos to Sarria. Both begin by following the main road for about 2km / ½ hr until there is a signposted split. Go right to follow paths through open country to arrive in Aguiada in 8km / 2 hrs. This route passes through beautiful countryside and the localities (you can hardly call them villages) of Pascais, Gorolfe, Veiga, Sivil and Perros. The left route follows the road all the way to Sarria.

Right and left routes rejoin in...

2km / ½ hr to Café Serra.

2km / ½ hr to Peruscallo, café.

2km / ½ hr to A Brea, café.

1km / ¼ hr to 100km from Santiago waymarker. Shortly afterwards, As Rozas, café in a farm yard.

2km / ½ hr to A Parrocha, café

1km / ¼ hr to Vilacha, café. At the time of publication (late 2019) Casa Banderas was closed but due to reopen in April 2020. Please check their website for more up-to-date information www.casabanderas.com

After Vilacha there are two possible routes. The 'official' Camino follows a busy road for some time until it veers on to a narrow path between high stone walls. This path is steep and can be dangerous, especially after rain. The old route (pre 2015), which branches right and follows a quiet country road, is still signposted.

If you're not stopping in Portomarín and you don't feel like climbing all those steps you can turn left just after the bridge, walk along the road and rejoin the Camino where it crosses a bridge to the left.

The Camino route has recently been redirected away from the road for a short distance after Castromaior.

1km / ¼ hr, café.

2km / ½ hr, café.

1km / ¼ hr to Lestedo, café.

3km / ¾ hr, café.

2km / ½ hr café.

1km / ¼ hr cafés.

2km / ½ hr café.

This is the point where the Camino Primitivo (which starts in Oviedo) joins the Camino Francés. The junction is at the church.

2km / ½hr to left turn for detour via Penas, there's very little to chose between the two routes except that the right route has a nice stone bridge.

2km / ½hr, café.

1km / ¼ hr to where the Camino divides briefly. There is little difference between the two routes.

Arzúa is where the Camino del Norte joins the Camino Francés.

You'll need to cross the main road several times between here and O Pedrouzo. Extreme caution is advised, this road can be very busy at times!

2km / ½ hr to O Empalme, cafés.

The official Camino passes through the outskirts of the town of O Pedrouzo, to go to the town centre where the hostels and most business are, turn left on to the main road at a place where the Camino crosses it - just after A Rua. WARNING, lots of people miss this junction!

To regain the Camino continue along the main road and turn right at the Casa do Concello.

3km / ¾ hr café.

4km / 1 hr after the airport, café.

2km / ½ hr, café.

3km / ¾ hr, café.

1km / ¼ hr to Vilamaior, café.

3km / ¾ hr to Camping San Marco, café. Then about 3km / ¾ hr to...

It's urban walking from here on. Lots of cafés.

Although treated as a separate place here, San Lázaro is really just a suburb of Santiago.

It's surprisingly easy to get lost on the way into Santiago. If in doubt aim for the cathedral.

It's not over yet, not if you regard Santiago to be the last major obstacle on the way to Fisterra!

So when you've had enough of city prices your escape is down the slope to the left of Hostal dos Reis Católicos, on Praza do Obradoiro, past where pilgrims queue for meals, and straight ahead down Rúa das Hortas and Rúa da Poza de Bar. It's signposted with yellow arrows from there on.

West of Santiago waymarkings are far less ubiquitous than on the Camino Francés and are mostly the (official) concrete post type with a scallop-shell symbol on them, positioned at an angle which indicates the direction to follow. You may find this disconcerting at first. The general rule to keep in mind is that at each point where there is a choice of directions there will be a waymarking of some sort.

10km / 2½ hrs to Ventosa, café.

3km / ¾ hr to Aguapesada, café.

3km / ¾ hr to Trasmonte, café.

2km / ½ hr to Pontemaceiro, café.

2km / ½ hr to Chancela de Abaixo, café.

7km / 1¾ hrs to Maroñas, café.

Shortly after Hospital is the turn to the right which bring you directly to Muxía in 25km / 6¼ hrs. Direction MUXIA: 4km / 1 hr Dumbría, pilgrim hostel, cafés, shops and a bank. This route is described in detail after the entry for Muxía.

Fisterra to Muxía is 31km / 7¾ hrs. There are no shops and the only place to eat is in Lires. Waymarking, in the form of concrete bollards, has been greatly improved on this route and can be followed easily in both directions.

Leave Fisterra walking back towards Santiago up Rúa Santa Catalina. After about 400m you come to a point where there's a stone cross and a path leads to the right down towards the beach, here you should continue walking along the main road for about 300m until you veer left before Asador San Ronque. You'll see the first Muxía bollard here. There are also yellow arrows with M and F. The Xunta hostel in Muxía may want to see a stamp from Lires as proof that you walked from Fisterra (and vice a versa).

4km / 1 hr to Hormedesuxo from Fisterra. The Camino veers right at a crossroads.

1km / ¼ hr to San Salvador, café on the right at the start of the village.

2km / ½ hr to Buxán, small donativo café. Pass through Buxán veering right and continue on a road through a wood for 900m, then turn left.

2km / ½ hr to Castrexe. Just before the village there is an option to veer left and walk a path which follows a coastal route into Lires, it's about 1km longer. On this route, beside a lonely beach watch out for the Fonte Soleiros / the Fountain of the Lonely. With its motto: Se tés mal d'amores bebe da Fonte Soleiros, que a falta dun bo mozo sáenche sete zalameiros.

3km / ¾ hr to A Canosa. Now it's 3km / ¾ hr to Lires.

From Lires it's 15km / 3¾ hrs to Muxía. Shortly after Lires the Camino crosses the río Castro where a footbridge has replaced the stepping-stones where pilgrims used to get their feet wet - left of the bridge.

5km / 1¼ hr to Guisamonde.

4km / 1 hr to Morquintián.

4km / 1 hr to Xurarantes, where you join the road walking past the beautiful beach at Playa Lourido. Now follow the road straight into Muxía.

Muxía to Dumbria 22km / 5½hrs

The following description of the route between Muxía and Dumbría is written from the point-of-view of a pilgrim starting in Muxía. The waymarkings are much easier to follow in the other direction (Dumbría - Muxía).

In Muxía, follow the waymarkings south from the quays. After about 500m turn left on to the wooden boardwalk and follow this to the end and then continue straight along a grassy lane.

2km / ½ hr to Chorente, continue straight until at the end of the village opposite a large house on the right the Camino forks to the left and then at the end of this road turns right towards Os Muiños. The right fork will take you through the village of Moraime.

2km / ½ hr to Os Muiños, café on the main road a little off the Camino to the right. After Os Muiños continue to the left along a coastal road through a forest until just before the village of Merexo the road turns left and the Camino continues straight on a smaller road for about 100m before turning right past a house and continuing on a lane through a forest straight all the way to Vilarde. Now turn left and zigzag down the hill.

4km / 1 hr to San Martiño, from here continue straight parallel to the main road.

2km / ½ hr to Quintán, cafés. Alternatively, between Os Muiños and Quintáns it's slightly shorter to follow the main road.

In Quintáns cross the main road and continue straight up the hill. This brings you on to a lane through farmland and forest for about 5km until you rejoin a paved road where you turn left and follow the road.

7km / 1¾ hrs to Senande, cafés and a shop (in the first café). In Senande turn right at the village square on to the main road, continue past two cafés (left and right) and, just at the edge of the village, take the small road which veers left. After about 1km this road turns a sharp left then a right then a left again. Now walk straight for about 1km until you rejoin a paved road where you turn left.

3km / ¾ hr to Trasufe. Take the right turn up through the village, at the top veer right on the road and almost immediately, where there's a small white house, take a left on to a lane which leads uphill. After about 3km you'll come to a disused road, take the lane to the left here and in about 300m you'll cross the new main road and continue on a smaller road into Dumbría. From here it's still about 2km to the hostel.

Dumbría is 10km / 2½ hrs from Olveiroa and 22km / 5½ hrs from Muxía. From the Xunta hostel, to walk towards Olveiroa, turn right on to the main road and follow it (sometimes veering left and right) for about for about 4km until you join the Santiago-Fisterra Camino at a roundabout.