Between here and Roncesvalles there are two routes. The (lower) RIGHT route goes through Valcarlos, and the (higher) LEFT route goes through Orisson. If you're walking outside the summer months it's important to ask in the Pilgrims Office about weather conditions. Both routes are difficult in snow or high winds and the LEFT route is OFFICIALLY CLOSED from the beginning of November until the end of March (ignoring this may lead to legal sanctions). Remember that in mountainous areas such as this, weather conditions can change very quickly.

Leaving Saint-Jean walk down rue de la Citadelle, under the arch of Porte d'Espagne and up rue d'Espagne, continuing straight under another arch and up a hill for about 100m until you reach a junction with a small sign on a lamppost indicating where the two routes divide.

RIGHT ROUTE VIA VALCARLOS *** TOTAL LENGTH 23.4km *** TOTAL ASCENT 1530m / DESCENT -758m

Turn right on to Chemin de Mayorga and continue straight until you come to the main road which you follow to the left. After 720m turn right on to a small road, clearly signposted Valcarlos / Luzaide and Roncevaux (French for Roncesvalles).

6.8km to the Spanish border, marked by a shopping centre and petrol station. Shops, cafés and restaurants. Walk towards the petrol station and continue straight.

1.2km to Arnéguy. The Camino crosses the river into France again and continues on a minor road through the village of Ondarrola, where it crosses the river again back into Spain then up a steep hill to Valcarlos.

Follow the main road for 2.4km until the Camino veers left on to a minor road and passes through the village of Gañecoleta before rejoining the main road after 1.7km. It then follows the main road for another 2.3km before veering left on to a lane. From there it's 4.1km of wooded, mountainous terrain to the top at Ibañeta (apart from one place where the Camino briefly meets the road again). Off-road parts of this route may be difficult in snow, in which case it's advisable to stick to the road. From the peak it's 1.4km down to Roncesvalles.

At the summit of the Puerto de Ibañeta, beside a small modern chapel, is a monument to Roland (Roldán in Spanish) and the Battle of Roncesvalles. Although the current chapel is very recent, there has been a chapel here since the middle ages. When there was fog or snow the chapel bell was rung to guide pilgrims who had gotten lost.

LEFT ROUTE VIA ORISSON *** TOTAL LENGTH 24.3km *** TOTAL ASCENT 1465m / DESCENT -694m

This route is sometimes known as le Port de Cize or the Route Napoléon. It follows the route of the Via Traiana, a Roman road linking Bordeaux and Astorga. In the early days of the Camino Francés this was the most popular route. Its popularity declined during the late middle-ages.

2.4km to Honto / Hontto

Ferme Ithurburia, to the left of the Camino. Evening meal. Breakfast. Laundry facilities. Singles/doubles from 70€. Tel 05 59 37 11 17

3.8km after Orisson at a place called Pic d'Hostatéguy you'll pass the statue of La Vierge du Chemin with (weather permitting) panoramic views of the western Pyrenees. From there it's another 8.9km to the highest point at altitude 1427m, after which it's another 4.2km down to Roncesvalles.

Welcome to Spain and Navarra!

There are two options when descending into Roncesvalles, the most popular route to the left is quite a steep descent through the forest, while the route to the right is slightly longer, descending more gently along an unpaved road via the church at Puerto de Ibañeta.

LEFT AND RIGHT ROUTE REJOIN IN RONCESVALLES

The Camino takes an abrupt right turn at the red Santander sign.

5.2km to Viskarret, new café Bar Dena Ona before the village and the traditional Bar Juan on main square with its amazing tortillas. Small Covirán supermarket on your left at the end of the village.

1.9km to Linzoain, after that it's 7.8km to Zubiri with a steep descent into the valley of the river Arre.

The Camino continues straight along the riverbank and doesn't go through Zubiri which is on the other side of the bridge.

The Camino bypasses Larrasoaña. If you want to visit the village turn right to cross the bridge.

It's suburban streets from here to Pamplona. The Camino turns right shortly before a roundabout with a fountain in the middle and crosses a main road and turns right again. The 'zig-zag' footbridge over the river is the quickest way to Casa Paderborn, otherwise continue straight along the riverbank to Puente de la Magdalena.

If you get lost leaving Pamplona head for the Ciudadela fortress at the corner of Avenida del Ejército and Avenida del Pio XII. The path beside the park, with the fortress to your left, is the Camino. It's clearly marked. Several cafés around here are open early.

The land between Pamplona and Cizur Menor is the site of the mythical battle between Charlemagne and the giant Muslim leader Aigolando said to have raged for days. It ended in victory for Charlemagne.

From Cizur Menor it's a 300m climb to the peak of the Alto del Perdón.

Shortly before you reach the peak of the Alto del Perdón, where the windmills tower above you like something from a modern-day Don Quijote, you'll pass a drinking fountain. This is where, according to legend, the devil appeared to a parched pilgrim and offered to buy his soul for a drink of water. The pilgrim, no doubt having weighed up his options, decided in view of the unspeakable (and eternal) horrors that awaited him in hell that he could probably manage another while without a drink and politely declined. Whereupon, in a blinding flash of light, St James himself appeared and striking the ground with his staff brought forth a raging torrent of fresh water. Thus saving the pilgrim from a thirsty walk to the next village.

Today, unfortunately, of that raging torrent only a trickle remains.

The peak of Alto del Perdón has fantastic views of the route already travelled and the adventures yet to come. At the top is a flat, cut-out sculpture of medieval pilgrims on their way to Santiago. The inscription reads:

Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas

Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars

Observe how the fauna has begun to change from northern European to Mediterranean. Before long you'll begin to see grapevines growing beside the Camino.

There is a steep descent on loose gravel from Alto del Perdón. It must be tackled with care.

2.7km to Muruzábal, café.

From Muruzábal you can make a short detour to visit the historic church in Eunate, it's signposted from the Camino. From Eunate you can rejoin the Camino in Obanos, adding approximately 3km to your Camino.

The pilgrim albergue in Eunate is closed. The church has variable opening times depending on the month. Entrance is 1.50€ for pilgrims. See santamariadeeunate.es/horarios-de-apertura

The church of La Ermita Santa Maria de Eunate, to give it its proper name (ermita is Spanish for hermitage), was built in the 12th century. Its location in open country and close to the meeting of two Caminos suggests it was intended primarily as a pilgrim church, however little is known for certain about its history. It is octagonal in shape and surrounded by an external gallery of 33 arches. Its shape, similar to the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, has provoked speculations about a connection with the Knights Templar. The presence of stairs giving access to the roof suggests it may have been a funeral chapel because of the tradition of placing a lantern there during the funeral. However, many features of the architecture and décor of this church, such as its shape, the external arches, some of the carvings, etc., continue to bemuse historians. The stonemasons who worked on the church left carved symbols to identify their handiwork. See if you can spot them.

Eunate is the point where the Camino Aragonés, an extension of the Chemin d'Arles which enters Spain over the Col de Somport, joins the Camino Francés.

1.5km to Obanos, cafés, shops, pharmacy, all near the Camino.

The handsome neo-Gothic church which overlooks the village square was completed in 1912. The Mystery of Obanos (see below) is re-enacted by local people in full costume in July of even years (ie. 2022, 2024, etc.) for eight days from the Saturday before St James' Day (25 July).

Obanos is the setting of a Camino legend dating from the 14th century. At that time the daughter of the king and queen of Aquitaine, Felica, decided to follow the family tradition of going on pilgrimage to Santiago. She returned from her journey so filled with piousness and religious fervour that she was unable to settle back into the life of idleness and privilege that befitted one of her station and instead, leaving it all behind, set off to live an anonymous life of service to others.

Needless to say her family were outraged and sent her brother Guillén to track her down. He found her after much searching in Obanos and when his efforts to persuade her to return to their family home proved to be for nought he flew into a rage and killed her with his dagger.

Having killed his sister Guillén was racked with guilt and as penance decided to follow in her footsteps to Santiago. While there he in his turn saw the light and decided to dedicate the remainder of his life to poverty and charity. On his return to Obanos he built a hermitage on a nearby peak called Arnotegui, where he lived out his days as a hermit dedicated to prayer and helping passing pilgrims. The hermitage at Arnotegui is still there on a hilltop about 3km south-west of the village, the road up is signposted from the main road.

There are two routes to get to Puente la Reina. Leaving Obanos you'll come to steps going down left which lead to a slightly meandering (and slightly longer) path to Puente. Alternatively, if you choose to continue straight ahead you can follow a path parallel to the road passing Albergue Jakue.

There is a surprisingly steep 100m climb before arriving in...

Leaving Cirauqui, the Camino passes over a bridge dating from the Roman era. This part of the Camino mostly follows a Roman road, the remains of which are at times visible. This was a secondary Roman road, the main Bordeaux to Astorga road ran to the north of here.

This region has several despoblados or abandoned villages. Between Cirauqui and Lorca you will pass through one which once covered 20km² on both sides of the Roman road. Today only the ruins of the church remain.

It's around here that vines and olive trees begin to appear, marking the transition from the more humid and cold northern climate to the warmer and dryer Mediterranean.

To leave Estella continue past the Municipal Albergue on Calle la Rua, then straight until you come to a roundabout where you continue straight towards another roundabout where there is an Avia petrol station. After this the Camino continues uphill on a footpath. You can also continue walking along the road, Calle de Carlos VII, which rejoins the Camino after 500m, on this road is a small Decathlon (outdoor shop) and several large supermarkets.

The Camino splits shortly after Bodegas Irache. Distances for left and right routes are Ayegui to Los Arcos.

RIGHT ROUTE 19.4km

5.7 km to Azqueta. Nice café, open from 07:00. Vending machines.

Friendly guest house La Perla Negra, on the Camino on the left, 45€ person, evening meal and breakfast included. Tel 627 114 797

12km through open country with very little shade to Los Arcos.

LEFT ROUTE 18.8km

The left route passes through beautiful forested countryside and the village of Luquín.

10.8km to Los Arcos, very little shade.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN BEFORE LOS ARCOS

You will pass the site of the Hospital de Cugullo of which today not much remains. It was founded in 1099 by the Order of St John of Jerusalem.

Entering La Rioja (although if you stray a little to your right you can pass through a tiny corner of the Basque Country)

Supermarkets and fruit and veg market on the Camino on the way out of town (not open at the crack of dawn). Mostly concrete walking surfaces to Navarrete!

6.3km café La Parada del Peregrino (closed in August 2024). Public toilets. Watch out for squirrels begging for (and possibly stealing) food, and rabbits.

The Camino follows the road for a while before swinging away to the left shortly after the Ermita de Santa María de Jesús.

A sign-posted alternative route allows you to bypass Ventosa and shorten the way by 500m.

After passing under a main road don't miss the left turn towards Nájera (unless you actually want to visit Huércanos - not recommended).

Extreme care is necessary when crossing the main roads in Santo Domingo!

Entering Castilla y León. The border is marked by a 'megalith' which is rumoured to have appeared in the dead of night during a violent thunder storm. Local Albergue owners are rumoured to offer it a blood sacrifice every new year's day in the hope of plentiful big spending pilgrims and possibly a sequel to The Way.

The main road here can be busy with fast traffic. Construction is underway on the new motorway and is likely to lead to some detours in the coming years.

It is not advisable to walk along the side of the very busy main road.

Ascent 214m over 3.1km

At the summit of Montes de Oca (3.6km) is a monument dedicated to the victims of a massacre during the civil war, the inscription reads:

No fue inútil su muerte, fue inútil su fusilamiento / Their death wasn't in vain, their execution was

In 2011 a mass grave was uncovered here containing the bodies of 60 people.

These hills (mountains is hardly the word) have the reputation in Camino lore for being a den of thieves, conmen and other assorted low-life who, taking advantage of the thick undergrowth, would lie in wait for unsuspecting pilgrims and relieve them of their valuables.

Nowadays, the most dangerous thing in this area is the traffic in Villafranca.

The Montes de Oca are at the extreme north-western end of the Sistema Ibérico mountain range which extends from here south-east through southern Rioja and on into eastern Castile. This mountain range is part of the watershed between the Atlantic and Mediterranean. Heavily wooded with native oak, the Montes de Oca are a paradise for wildlife, with deer and wild boar living here in abundance. You may also see otters, wildcats, foxes, badgers and wolves. Besides oak, juniper and ash are also common.

There are two routes from here to Burgos. The alternative one is waymarked but little-used and devoid of pilgrim accommodation. It passes through the following villages: Santovenia de Oca, Zalduendo, Ibeas de Juarros, Castrillo del Val, San Medel, Castañares and then to Burgos. Parts of it are along the side of a main road.

2km to Orbaneja Ríopico, café.

There are two routes when entering Burgos. They divide after Orbaneja, after crossing over a motorway where you'll see houses and recycling containers on the left. The right route (10.9km from where they divide) has little shade and passes through Villafría (cafés) and a seemingly endless industrial zone. The left route (11.1km from where they divide) follows the perimeter fence of the airport to a village called Castañares (cafés) and a major road which you can cross at the pedestrian crossing to your left. Continue straight through a small park with a children's playground to your left and a basketball court to your right, straight along a small road which crosses a stream and swings right at the entrance to a factory. Continue until you cross a footbridge over a river. Now turn right and follow the path between the river and the road, turning left to pass under the road. Now you can follow the river for a pleasant, shady walk all the way to the city. There's a beach where you can swim (although the water is freezing). This route passes through a little-frequented nature reserve and some people may feel uncomfortable on their own.

Finding your way out of Burgos can be a bit complicated. Exiting the municipal albergue turn right and follow the Camino past the cathedral along Calle Fernán de González for 550m until you come to the city wall. Pass through the arch and turn left down the steps and straight on to Calle Emperador as far as Calle Villalon, where you turn left. This will bring you to the river which you cross on a footbridge (Puente Malotos) straight in front of you. After the footbridge you'll see a statue of Santo Domingo and the entrance to a park at the corner of Paseo de los Comendadores. You can either walk through the park or veer right on to Avenida de José Maria Vilacián Rebollo and then straight on to Calle de Villadiego, then veer right on to Calle de Benito Pérez Galdós (sign pointing to Los Guindales). From there follow the yellow arrows.

For several kilometres after Hontanas the Camino runs parallel to a quite country road. In bad weather walking the road is an easier option.

In case you were expecting the Meseta to be flat, there's a massive hill starting 2.5km after Castrojeriz.

5.1km to the clearly signposted turnoff for the village of Itero del Castillo where there is a café, an albergue and an impressive tower. The main Camino goes LEFT at this point.

Municipal (12, 12€, April to October) Albergue de Itero del Castillo, in the village of Itero del Castillo, 3.6km off the main Camino, turn right on to Calle del Sol. Microwaves. Tel 642 213 560

From Itero del Castillo it's a 1km walk back to the main Camino

Entering the Province of Palencia

Just before Población on the left is the Romanesque Ermita de San Miguel with a nice shady wooded area.

After Población, just before crossing a small bridge, the Camino divides to rejoin in Villalcázar de Sirga.

RIGHT ROUTE 11km

4.2km to Villovieco, café just after crossing the river. After the Camino crosses the Río Ucieza it continues along its banks for 5km until a bridge with a large house over to the left, here you turn left and follow the paved road for 1.7km to Villalcázar. This route is a quieter and more pleasant option than the left route.

LEFT ROUTE 9.7km

This route goes along the side of a road.

3.6km Revenga de Campos. Café.

2.1km to Villarmentero.

4km to Villalcázar de Sirga

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN VILLALCAZAR

You should not leave Carrión without enough food and water for a long walk.

Take care crossing the main road here, traffic is infrequent but the locals have heavy feet.

The Camino goes through open country after Lédigos however in 2024 there was a lot of arrows directing you on to an older route to the right, which goes along the side of the road.

Entering the Province of León

4.5km after Sahagún, at a road junction near a motorway just before Calzada del Coto. Here the Camino divides and continues on two separate paths until Reliegos. Much overpainting of arrows at this junction. The right route was a Roman Road whereas the left route is the original Camino Francés.

RIGHT ROUTE 30.9km TO RELIEGOS

From where the two routes divide it is 500m to Calzada del Coto.

17.4km to Reliegos or 24km to Mansilla via an alternative route which branches right after 16.5km (signpost often vandalised). Don't set off without adequate supplies for a long day's walking. There is no possibility to stock up on the way. The route runs entirely through open countryside parallel to the León - Madrid railway line. It is however possible to cross over to the left route in several places. You should not cross the railway line unless you want to join the other route.

LEFT ROUTE 30.3km TO RELIEGOS.

For the left route continue straight at the road junction where the right route goes right, then veer right on to an unpaved road. Many parts of this route are gravel path along the side of a quiet road (The so-called Senda).

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN RELIEGOS

4.5km to Arcahueja. It's urban walking from here to León.

The route has been changed recently to pass through Valdelafuente. It's hard to see the point of this except to force us to pass some local businesses and cross a busy main road. The old route is still an option and avoids crossing the main road and most of the walking beside it.

In the city of León, as well as the usual yellow arrows the Camino is marked by metal shells set into the ground. The route followed by the Camino continues more-or-less straight until an abrupt right turn on to Calle Ancha, which brings you up to the cathedral.

The Camino zigzags past the city's major tourist attractions until it leaves the city centre over the footbridge beside the magnificent Hostal de San Marcos. If you end up lost the easiest way to find your way out is to find the river and walk upstream until you come to the pedestrian bridge, Puente San Marcos, which is just beside Hostal de San Marcos. Cross the river here on the pedestrian bridge and follow the yellow arrows out of town.

Several cafés do breakfast in Trobajo del Camino south of the river. There are also several supermarkets, pharmacies, bakeries and banks along the Camino (however they don't open until about 09:00).

Cross the main road at the church and turn right. 360m further on the Camino divides. This junction has recently been remodelled and in September 2024 the confusing signposting has been replaced by a confusing lack of signposting. The right route runs along the side of a busy main road. The left route passes through open countryside. The two routes rejoin in Hospital de Órbigo.

RIGHT ROUTE 27.1km

4.2km to Valverde de la Virgin.

1.2km to San Miguel del Camino, shop, cafés.

7.2km to Hospital de Órbigo

LEFT ROUTE 27.1km

1.6km from where the Caminos divide to Fresno del Camino, café.

5.6km to Chozas de Abajo, café (with nice tortillas) 250m off the Camino to the left. Then 4.4km to Villar de Mazarife

Villavente can be bypassed by continuing straight on the road.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN HOSPITAL DE ÓRBIGO

At then end of the village the Camino turns right. A little-frequented alternative continues straight at this point. It is 2km shorter than the more popular route but it mostly follows a busy main road where there are no villages (or anything really) until where it rejoins the main route in San Justo de la Vega.

5km to David's refreshment stand.

2.7km to San Justo de la Vega.

San Justo de la Vega, cafés, bakery and further on on the right a shop and a pharmacy, all on the Camino. Café Bar Oasis is a friendly place and claims to have the best tortilla in the world (it just might be true!)

4km to Astorga.

Leaving town is a bit confusing so pay close attention to the waymarkings. Following the Camino through town (this already is a challenge) then with the cathedral main façade to you right veer left down Calle Leopoldo Panero and then at the end turn right. Continue straight across a road junction on to Calle de San Pedro, past the unusual modern Iglesia de San Pedro, until you arrive at the main road called Avenida Madrid-Coruña, which you cross on the pedestrian crossing to the right before continuing on to Calle de los Mártires. Follow this and it's straight all the way out of town.

Astorga marks the beginning of the Maragatería but it also marks the end of the geographic region of the Meseta which we entered weeks ago near Burgos. Today the land is sloping gently upwards and we will continue to climb for the next 30km or so until we reach the Camino Francés' highest point between Manjarín and El Acebo.

2.4km to Valdeviejas, albergue closed

The climb to Cruz de Ferro begins in earnest after El Ganso, however, the ascent is mostly pretty gradual.

You can walk on the road all the way to Molinaseca if you so desire, a good option if it's been snowing.

1.9km after Foncebadón you will come to the Cruz de Ferro.

The Cruz de Ferro is also sometimes called the Cruz de Hierro or Cruz do Fierro. It doesn't mark the highest point on the Camino, that's a few kilometres later, but it's pretty high nevertheless. It's traditional for pilgrims to deposit a pebble here which they carried from their home to ask for protection on the remainder of their journey. Today the cross stands on top of a 5m high pile of stones. Pilgrim often also leave some other memento here.

The site of the Cruz de Ferro is believed to have been used by the Romans as a shrine to their God Mercury and was then 'Christianised' by Gaucelmo who placed the first cross here.

2.3km to Manjarín

Manjarín was abandoned at the beginning of the 19th century and only came back to life in 1993 when a pilgrim albergue opened here. Its history, like so many other villages in this region, dates back to the early days of the Camino when there was a pilgrim albergue here. Sadly the famous and iconic albergue here has closed and it seems unlikely if it will open again.

3.2km after Manjarín, after passing an antenna on your right, you will reach the highest point on the Camino Francés at 1515m and enter El Bierzo. Fiestas Día Del Bierzo 8 September.

After the highest point you will descend 930m over 11.7km between here and Molinaseca. The path may be slippery in places, especially in winter. It is possible to follow the road all the way.

There is a long, steep descent into Molinaseca. An easier alternative if you don't like descents or in poor weather, is to walk along the (quiet) road.

From here, unfortunately, you'll be walking on hard surfaces most of the way to Las Herrerías.

From Molinaseca walk along the footpath beside the main road towards Ponferrada.

2.8km after Molinaseca the Camino divides. From here there are two options to enter Ponferrada. Either continue on the main road for 4km, or veer left on to a minor road to follow a longer 'official' Camino through a series of meanders for 5.1km.

Getting out of Ponferrada is a little complicated, follow the Camino to the castle and then turn right. The Camino leads you through the historic centre before crossing the river into the new part of town where it turns right to follow the river north for 1.4km until it turns left away from the river at a roundabout shortly after the Museo de la Energia / Energy Museum.

4.5km to Columbrianos, café.

The Camino in Camponaraya runs along a busy road the length of the village and out the other end, then at the gates of a factory it veers up to the left beside a picnic area.

2.3km to Pieros. The nice albergue here sadly burned down.

Shortly after crossing the bridge in Villafranca the Camino divides. The main (easiest and shortest) route continues straight ahead and follows the road along the flat valley floor beside the Río Valcarce. Passing through the village of Pereje.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE (does not go through Pereje) This (more scenic, hillier and longer) route goes up a narrow, steep street by Peluquería Ana / Hairdresser. (It may not be signposted due to vandalism.) It passes through beautiful mountainous countryside before rejoining the main route in Trabadelo. It has a steep 410m ascent and corresponding descent. Yellow arrows are scarce at times. Once at the top follow the unpaved road. This route passes through Pradela where there is a café and an albergue.

Private (10, 6€, March to November) Albergue Lamas, in the village of Pradela on the alternative route. Laundry facilities. Café / restaurant with local produce and their own wine. Breakfast. Tel 677 569 764 Open 11:00

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE On the descend towards Trabadelo along a minor road, in a left-hand curve there's a marked track branching right, follow this. The route crosses the road twice before arriving in Trabadelo. This alternative route is a bit of an adventure but much more beautiful than the main valley route and worth the slog (in good weather and visibility).

4.8km Pereje, the municipal albergue has been closed since the beginning of Covid.

In the 12th century the pilgrim albergue in Pereje was the scene of a territorial dispute between the Cluniac monastery of Villafranca and a rival monastery in O Cebreiro supported by the Abbey of Saint Géraud d'Aurillac. The O Cebreiro monks built a church and albergue in Pereje, in defiance of the Villafranca monks who officially administered the village. The dispute became so heated that Popes and monarchs became involved. Thankfully it was eventually settled with a minimum of bloodshed.

1.3km to Ambasmestas. Cafés. The café in the Centro de Turismo Rural does an excellent Pilgrim Menu.

The climb to O Cebreiro begins here. In the next 8.2km the Camino ascends 619m.

Welcome to Galicia, Province of Lugo

There are few Municipal Albergues in Galicia however in their place are Xunta Albergues. These are funded directly by the Government of Galicia (the Xunta). They always have kitchens but for reasons which will not be speculated upon here their kitchens are rarely usable. ie. The cooker doesn't work, there are no utensils, etc. For this reason Xunta Albergues which have unusable kitchens (which is most of them) are listed here as having no kitchen.

Leaving O Cebreiro walk to the left of the Xunta albergue and through the forest on a good path. Ignore signposting urging you to walk along the road!

Shortly after Liñares you will come to Alto de San Roque with its famous statue of the pilgrim struggling forward against a headwind.

2.5km to Biduedo, café

At the end of the main street in Triacastela the Camino goes in two opposite directions. The right route goes through Calvor and on to Sarria. The left route goes through Samos. The two routes rejoin in Aguiada shortly before Sarria.

RIGHT ROUTE 13.6km TO AGUIADA

8.1km to Furela, café Bar Franco does good food, especially empanadas and Caldo Galego (see under O Cebreiro) although only in cold weather.

1.72km to Pintín, café

520m to Aguiada

LEFT ROUTE 19.8km TO AGUIADA

Follow the road for 4km as far as San Cristovo do Real where the Camino branches to the right.

1.75km to Renche, café.

After Samos the Camino follows the main road for 2.5km until it branches right at a restaurant called Mesón Pontenova. This route passes through beautiful countryside and the localities (you can hardly call them villages) of Pascais, Gorolfe, Veiga, Sivil and Perros.

7.9km from Samos to Sivil, café.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN AGUIADA, 4.5km BEFORE SARRIA

There have been reports of charity scammers outside Sarria. They generally accost pilgrims on a quite part of the Camino with a clipboard and a story about helping deaf children. It's all lies. Don't give them anything. The best thing is not to engage with them at all, look pissed-off, look straight ahead and keep walking.

1.7km to Café Serra.

3.1km to Molino de Marzán (the albergue here is closed)

1.6km to Peruscallo, café.

2.5km to A Brea, café.

900m to 100km from Santiago waymarker.

300m to A Pena, café. Shortly after A Pena, As Rozas, café in a farm yard.

1.7km from the albergue to A Parrocha, café

600m after Vilacha the Camino divides. The left route veers on to a narrow path between high stone walls. This path is steep and can be slippy, especially after rain. The right route (the only one until 2015) branches right and follows a quiet country road. These routes rejoin at the bridge just before Portomarín. The distances are more-or-less the same.

If you're not stopping in Portomarín and you don't feel like climbing all those steps you can turn left just after the bridge, walk along the road and rejoin the Camino where it crosses a bridge to the left.

1.9km, café.

800m Café Casa Mariluz with its enormous tortillas de patata.

2.2km to Portos, cafés.

800m to Lestedo, café.

1.9km, café.

2km café.

750m cafés.

2.1km café.

This is the point where the Camino Primitivo (which starts in Oviedo) joins the Camino Francés.

4km café.

Arzúa is where the Camino del Norte joins the Camino Francés.

You'll need to cross the main road several times between here and O Pedrouzo. Extreme caution is advised, this road can be very busy at times!

2.2km to A Brea, cafés

1.7km to O Empalme, cafés.

The official Camino passes through the outskirts of the town of O Pedrouzo, to get to the town centre, where the albergues and most business are, turn left on to the main road at a place where the Camino crosses it just after A Rúa. WARNING: it is easy to miss this junction!

To get back to the Camino continue along O Pedrouzo's main street and turn right at the Casa do Concello.

There are cafés every couple of kilometres from here on.

Frequent cafés from here on. Café de Amancio in Vilamaior is nice.

It's urban jungle from here on. Lots of cafés, etc.

It's surprisingly easy to get lost on the way into Santiago. If in doubt aim for the cathedral.